Search This Blog

Thursday, 29 December 2022

Keith's review of ride: part 1, Day 1

Data was recorded by Wahoo Elemnt Bolt (old model, not the new one), then synched into Strava and Komoot, and then edited in Komoot into Tours and a Collection.

The full Komoot Collection is https://www.komoot.com/collection/1892893/-2022-italy-actuals-bologna-to-lecce-using-rented-ebikes

Day 1: Sept 9 - Bologna to Cusercoli (target was Santa Sofia)

The original plan was to catch the train about 8am from Bologna to Faenza then ride up into the hills. The plan did not survive contact with a train strike... At about 7:20am, while I was having espresso, Chris advised our train had been cancelled. I messaged jokingly that "I feel a ride to Faenza coming on.." and jumped on the ebike to ride to Centrale railway station. I was the only one who had not already been at Bologna station and by the time I got there, it was pretty bloody obvious that I did not have enough time (3 minutes) to get through the crowds, get the full laden ebike down stairs, up stairs and onto a crowded train. 

My first mistake: I decided to ride to Faenza, it was basically flat and I knew that the others had to visit Vodafone shop at Faenza. It was just after 7:30am, shops didn't open until 10am, which gave me 2.5 to 3 hours to get to Faenza and the others would wait for me if I could get there by 1030, right? I was so stressed that I did not explain this to anyone. I told Julie I was riding and to let the others know, but didn't explain my thinking. 

The route out of Bologna that Komoot choose for me was probably touring bike, I should have chosen road bike? It was a very pretty bicycle friendly route out of Bologna but slow (15kph). 

The ride through Imola struck me with it being very pretty, prettier than I expected. 

The others had not waited for me in Faenza, and it was nearly 11am by the time I arrived there with over 50km done, temp 31C. One water bottle empty and the other nearly empty. I expected a cafe to appear on my way out from the town but I was wrong. I was soon looking in front yards of the houses I passed to find a water tap or hose. On the outskirts of Villagrappa I found a working tap and hose and refilled water. A bit further on a small shop was open so I lunched on cornetto ice cream and lemon drink. My recollection from that hot day was that the town was called Vinigrappa, but a quick check of route and map shows me now that my brain was addled by heat and effort. 

The planned route into Meldola did not use the main roads but suddenly diverted into a very hilly (and pretty) area. The battery had been showing one bar remaining of five, and I had not configured the display to show me forecast remaining km. On some undulations, I caught with up a chap called Pierro on his recumbent and said hello. A retired local out for a casual ride. Part way up a steep climb at pretty much bang on 80km elapsed riding, the battery dropped to empty. I could not pedal the bike uphill fully laden without battery assist. I walked the hill and Piero was waiting at the top. He took us a less hilly way into Meldola where he knew cafes. The first owner was scared that recharging an ebike battery would cost her heaps. The second cafe was closing. The third was a specialist cafe (Vai Pianinoand owner owned a Tesla - he laughed and pointed to the power outlets on the wall. 

Piero bought me a cold drink and local "toastie" but I was in that awful state where my body did not want to eat - even though I needed the energy real bad. Piero and I talked about lots of things: health scares we had, why he was now riding a recumbent instead of MTB, his US friends that he had toured with before, his hope to meet them again, perhaps visit them in US. While preparing this blog entry, I found Piero had written online about his travels with US friends at https://xoomer.virgilio.it/recumbent/piero.htm
Pierro was a champion and deserves good karma! Thanks to also to the host at Vai Pianino!

My second big mistake: I turned down an offer from Julie for the van to pick me up there. I was not thinking straight - been so focussed on getting to the end so much that I failed to recognise the smart thing was to be picked up. It was past cafe closing time, time to leave. The ebike battery was showing 2 bars, and less than 30 km remained. Sounds easy if you forget the laden ebike weight, climbing to do, headwind, heat, and state of the rider - so I resumed my journey. 

Most of us were staying at Galeata but Julie and I had booked a bit further along in Pianetto towards Santa Sofia. Easy ride up from Galeata I thought a few weeks earlier :-)

The remaining effort from Meldola was uphill climbing a river valley into a hot headwind. The recharged battery lasted until about 2km uphill from Cusercoli. When it died, I nearly cried. Google Maps said it would take me 4+ hours to walk the remaining distance and Google Maps did not know I had a heavy ebike to push. I turned around and went back downhill to the town. I asked locals where to recharge but they had no English and I had no Italian. They guided me to a car charging point, but there was nowhere to plug the ebike charger in. 

I walked and rolled back to the nearby fountain to have a cry. 


No accommodation in the town apparently. I called our planned accommodation for the night to say that I was stranded, no idea when I might arrive. Someone offered that Marco the owner and chef could drive over and rescue me. SAVED!
Thank you Marco! A photo of the very kind chef:


A photo of me recovering later that evening at Marco's osteria La Campanara in Pianetto:








Wednesday, 12 October 2022

Review of the route

 By now you will know that I didn't end up riding much of the route because of COVID. So my reporting on the route is mostly second hand. Maybe one of the riders will step up and expand on my comments below.

First of all, the overall route was a success! As far as I know there were only three small defects, one of which seems to be a recent road closure and one of which was a temporary road closure. I'll describe each of them below.

Second, the route was entirely suitable for ebikes. Despite some range anxiety, there were probably only three days where a top-up charge was required. In each case this was readily available at restaurants along the route. Ebikes are common enough now that "plugging in" is normal.

Third, Italian drivers lived up to my expectations in terms of safety and courtesy. Very, very few close passes, no abuse, plenty of patience. Even Rome felt relatively safe and there are far more bikes on the streets now than there were in previous visits.

From Galeata to Sansepolcro.  On this section, use the larger road instead. The minor road becomes a gravel road, then a track, then blackberries and nettles. We had to push our bikes uphill across a field to regain the road.


DO stop for refuelling at San Piero in Bagno, it is a fair climb to the next shop at Verghereto. Then at Montecoronaro we had elected to use a section of road marked as closed. It is perfectly fine and there were other groups of cyclists using it. No cars made it a really fun descent. This might change in future but I doubt it.


After this my reports are second hand... I'll just report the defects as I understand them.

Keith: From L'Aquila to Sulmona: near Fossa, about 13km out, the planned route cut between some buildings but the road had been since blocked off as a construction site. We tried the side road to the right towards Fossa but it was narrow and hard, so we went back and went around to left.

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.2983135,13.4883119,3a,75y,133.17h,66.73t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s63nuvKJRZ6S50uG5QfTDpg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

Google Street View shows Via Della Stazione going between buildings. That was blocked off, where truck is  









From Colli a Volturno to Benevento. A bridge is closed. Have to stay on the main road instead. I think this is the spot.


Keith: It was a gate closing off the dam wall. Komoot had warned road closed :-)
I rode down a dirt path to the Molise river below dam wall but assessed it as too deep and fast to walk or ride through. We rode back past Molise Rafting again.




From Accadia to Lavello. A temporary road closure, not sure where it is... Keith?
Keith: At about 11km out. 
Looked like they were burning off, but it may have been the bridge that was undergoing repairs... we saw a bridge further down same river was closed, being repaired.




Friday, 7 October 2022

A gastronomic review

So here are my nominations for best food and wines... I can't pick one but instead I will nominate some selections. Note that these are just my personal opinions based on where I ate and what I ate!

Best Food
Things that I really enjoyed on this trip would have to include burrata cheese, the lovely little pears that were common at breakfast, and a big variety of bruschetta toppings.

Of all the food categories, I probably ate significantly more seafood than on other trips to Italy. Scampi, prawns, clams, several varieties of fish, octopus... all good.

Ristorante di Alighiero in Anghiari, was probably the pick as a complete meal. Beautifully presented fine dining with a formidable range of wines. I dined alone at the end of of my COVID bout.

Keiv Bistrot in Matera. Elegant food in an elegant setting with good staff.

The salads that Kate and I had in the shade of a lime tree for lunch at Gabo' gia' Coffee & More in Ostuni.

Best Restaurants

At the winery Masseria Li Veli near Cellino San Marco, grand service of a sumptuous lunch with matched wine tasting from the vineyard, all served in the impressive winery building.

The gardens are lovely too, with views out over the vineyards. Knowledgeable and friendly host.





Ristorante La Cantina in Alberobello was enormous fun. Just a great atmosphere and good food and wine. Good work by Kate to select and book! The restaurant was full and there were many prospective customers turned away while we were there.

We had a picture taken with the chef and boss and I suspect it happens a lot.





Best Provided Breakfasts

Sui Tetti in Lecce, with a rooftop restaurant, a barista on hand and a reasonable selection of breakfast items.

Le Dodici Lune in Matera, if only because omelets are available.  

Fresh squeezed orange juice is much more common in Italy than it used to be.

Best Red Wines

Very difficult. We drank a lot of good red wine!

Several stand out including the Montefalco we had in Sansepolcro.

Less well known in Australia was susumaniello that we tasted at Paco's Wines and at Masseria Li Veli. 

Also really liked some of the Negroamaro wines
including this one in Alberobello.











Some old favourites further north including this half bottle in Anghiari. Note the very fancy cork presentation!













Best White Wines


Hands down winner is the Cava Bianca Terrecarsiche1939, a blend of Bianco d'Alessano, Chardonnay and Fiano that we had in Ostuni. A revelation!

Lovely mouthfeel, good balanced acidity, lovely golden colour, what's not to like?

We had it at lunch and the next day went back and had it with dinner!

And here is one included because it is a stranger to me... a variety I had not had before.

Falanghina is one of the ancient grape varieties staging something of a comeback. Interesting, somewhat like a semillon, somewhat like a trebbiano. Citrus nose but all apple and pear on the palette.






Wednesday, 5 October 2022

End of the stay

Last day in Italy... a busy one for Kathleen but a quieter one for me. In the morning while Kathleen visited the forum, the Palatine and the colloseum 
I went for a walk. In the afternoon we took the train down to Fiumicino for a low key and relaxing end to our visit.
One last Italian seafood dinner with an unusual white wine from Campania. It was a lovely evening to dine outside and savour the slow pace of life which I like so much about Fiumicino.

Monday, 3 October 2022

An afternoon in Rome

The theme of revisiting some of my favourite places countined...

First, Kate and I had a slap up lunch at a Sardinian restaurant.... for me octopus salad, scampi and a decent vermentino from sardegna.
The aftermath:

Then on the Galleria Borghese! I still absolutely love the Berninis, they bring tears to my eyes. 

Oh and the Caravaggios and Tizianos are not bad either.

Not to mention some of the Roman art, especially the mosaic floors...
Oh, and ceilings...
An altogether wonderful gallery.

Then it was back to the apartment for a rest!

Sunday, 2 October 2022

A morning walk in Rome

Kathleen set off early, keen to see as much as she could, I was a little slower. Even so, Rome was very quiet when I started.
I revisited some of the places I like the most. First to Piazza Navona
By now there were starting to be some people around, but still quite pleasant.
From there I took the short walk to Campo dei Fiori.
The markets were well and truely up and running there.
Once upon a time this used to be the flower markets and there are still a couple of flower sellers there.
I did have one lucky find... in the window of a closed bike shop...
It has Il Colosseo on the back... hope they have it in my size when I visit on Monday!

Torniamo a Roma

We woke to thunder and lightning, but by the time we headed to the station it was dry. We boarded the Frecciargento (the slowest of Italy's fast trains) . I had booked early and gotten a good price for first class but the difference is not much to write home about. In fact the lack of large suitcase storage makes it worse in some ways that second class.

Nevertheless it was a comfortable trip and fairly quick with the train doing 250kph on the best bits. 

Dropped into Topbike to retrieve our luggage and then to our accommodation which is only 200m from the colosseum and quite comfortable.
Kathleen has a big day of tourism planned so an early night!

Friday, 30 September 2022

Lecce

Lecce is an attractive city, with attractive and well laid out buildings and streets. Our accommodation was just a stone's throw from Porta Napoli.
In the morning after a good breakfast I explored the centre of town.
That distinctive style of glazed tile roof appears on many public buildings around the city.

I revisited the site of the Roman amphiteatre where excavation now appears to be complete.
Then for the first time I took the trip up the bell tower of the Duomo. Great view. You can see the Mediterranean Sea in the distance.

As you traverse the six floors in the lift you pass the bells.
After that, siesta until dinner!

The four of us went to a quirky bar/hamburger joint close to Porta Napoli. It was fun. Great quirky decor, plenty of beers and plenty of food af a variety of styles. A fun evening. Thanks Keith and Julie for shouting!

Last day of riding/driving

We awoke to the news that Chris was unwell and would not be riding to Lecce. So unless we catch up in Rome, this is the end of our trip together. Chris and Pam will head back towards Rome in a day or two.

So Keith set out solo on the last leg... while Julie, Kate and I drove first to Monopoli and then to the winery Masseria Li Vel where Keith joined us for lunch.
Monopoli harbour was its usual photogenic self.
We were warmly welcomed at the winery and had an excellent lunch, accompanied by a glasses of several of their wines with informative commentary provided by our friendly host. We could not leave Italy without visiting any wineries and this turned out to be a good choice.Lunch consisted of about a dozen appetisers fulled by cavatelli pasta with meat balls and tomato sauch, followed by apple turnover and grapes! Won't need dinner.
Then it was on to Lecce where the logistics of people, hotels and rental car return took a couple of hours. Done now!