Lecce

Lecce is an attractive city, with attractive and well laid out buildings and streets. Our accommodation was just a stone's throw from Porta Napoli.

In the morning after a good breakfast I explored the centre of town.

That distinctive style of glazed tile roof appears on many public buildings around the city.

I revisited the site of the Roman amphiteatre where excavation now appears to be complete.

Then for the first time I took the trip up the bell tower of the Duomo. Great view. You can see the Mediterranean Sea in the distance.

As you traverse the six floors in the lift you pass the bells.

After that, siesta until dinner!

The four of us went to a quirky bar/hamburger joint close to Porta Napoli. It was fun. Great quirky decor, plenty of beers and plenty of food af a variety of styles. A fun evening. Thanks Keith and Julie for shouting!

Last day of riding/driving

We awoke to the news that Chris was unwell and would not be riding to Lecce. So unless we catch up in Rome, this is the end of our trip together. Chris and Pam will head back towards Rome in a day or two.

So Keith set out solo on the last leg... while Julie, Kate and I drove first to Monopoli and then to the winery Masseria Li Vel where Keith joined us for lunch.

Monopoli harbour was its usual photogenic self.

We were warmly welcomed at the winery and had an excellent lunch, accompanied by a glasses of several of their wines with informative commentary provided by our friendly host. We could not leave Italy without visiting any wineries and this turned out to be a good choice.Lunch consisted of about a dozen appetisers fulled by cavatelli pasta with meat balls and tomato sauch, followed by apple turnover and grapes! Won't need dinner.

Then it was on to Lecce where the logistics of people, hotels and rental car return took a couple of hours. Done now!

A day in Ostuni

I went for a morning walk to find coffee. It was not yet eight thirty but already there were busloads of day trippers being marshalled in the piazza.

The morning light was lovely.

We mostly had a quiet afternoon and then a very nice dinner, all six of us together in the same garden restaurant where Kate and I had lunched previously.

The short trip to Ostuni

The day started in fine style with clear skies and marching bands! I was treated to the performance of two local bands who marched as part of the festival. The day had started earlier for some with a 4a.m. mass which was unfortunately close to Keith and Julie's accommdation. The market stalls seem to have been open all night as well and the streets were busy. 

We set off for our first stop: brunch at Locorotondo, to meet up at the park with a lovely view out over the local countryside.

 From there it was a short trip to Ostuni. My accommodation was very good, spacious and with a great roof top terrace.

Kate and I did some exploring and had a wonderful salad lunch in a leafy courtyard restaurant. We had a glass of an equally excellent local fiano, and then explored some more.

With a late lunch I decided to skip dinner and I think we were all somewhat tired for various reasons including the overnight noise in Alberobello and the exertions of exploring Matera. So it was an early night for me!

Alberobello Part II

OK, normally I try to have a blog entry for each day, but today I need to have two.

Our evening was just really, really, really good.

We started out with an evening wine tasting at Paco Wines. Paco is so enthusiastic and has some very good wines by the glass. We restricted ourselves to the two local varieties that you almost never see in Australia, susumaniello and negroamaro. Two really nice wines in lively surroundings! Each quite different but very enjoyable.

 Then we walked up the hill to the restaurant where Kate had made a booking for dinner. With the festival on, the streets were ablaze with lights and people out to see them.

Then the restaurant turned on the best, best meal of the trip so far. Kudos to Kathleen for making the booking. It is only a small restraurant and it was full. While we were there they turned away many potential customers.. obvioously have an excellent reputation  and it is deserved!

 Just no nonsense great food. I walked in with a hankering for garlic and I had spagetti ali oli which was just excellent and then capocollo.

Good negroamaro with it!

I ended up having dolce (lovely selection of almond meal  biscuits), coffee and grappa!

We ended the night with a photo with  the chef and "the boss".

Just memorable.

Alberobello

We awoke to thunder and lightning and it rained off and on all morning.

Having loaded the car with our luggage and some of that of the cyclists, we set off to Gravina too see the "James Bond Bridge". Tick.

Then it was on to Alberobello. Actually getting to our accommodation was one of those trial and error, driving around in circles things because of temporary road closures. We got there!

 Our host was a very kind and energetic man who explained everything, even how to use the parking machine. Kathleen and I stayed in an actual historic trullo, which has been his family home.

Up inside the roof:

The road closures were due to a fair on over the next few days and there were already stalls set up.

Funghi!!!

I even managed to buy a souvenir cycling jersey.

The evening is all organised with a wine tasting at Paco Wines and then dinner.

"Rest" day in Matera

It is hard to resist the urge to explore just one more winding stone staircase, to ignore one more photogenic vantage point... all this on a day when the Pope was in town, the Popemobile is roaming the streets and the church bells are tolling.

This is a unique city and I will probably never visit again so worth spending some shoe leather on. Its improbable history and geography combine to produce something wonderful.

After the crowds from the Papal visit dispersed there were still the usual number of tourists.  The main thoroughfares can be a bit crowded but it is easy to get away from the crowds in the lesser-visited areas.

We dined together, making our departure plans for the morning and back into Puglia.

To Matera

Kathleen and I checked out at Barletta, picked up the hire car and drove to Matera. The first nice thing was that the couple who run the B&B gave us a lift to Europcar, saving us the taxi fare. Second the hire car was a Fiat 500 which although it is not glamerous it is easy to drive, with intuitive controls, Airplay etc. so absolutely no issues with it. We took the secondary road route to Matera rather than just blasting down the autostrada. The journey started with the mix of olives and grapes that dominates the plains of Puglia but then slowly changed to the rolling wheatfields which are more common in the higher parts of Puglia and Basilicata. Absolutely no issues with the route or driving until we got into Matera where it turned into a bumper to bumper zoo. The last km took quite a while but the parking garage was efficient and the van soon delivered us to the hotel (well at least as close as you can get in a vehicle).

Saw Pam and then bumped into Julie so we all sat down to a light lunch. After that we went our separate ways as we monitored the progress of the two riders. They were doing about 50% riding and 50% stopping so another long day in the saddle...

I did my washing, went for a short walk. The number of tourists seems to be similar to last time I was here. It will soon be time for aperitivo!

Aperitivo coincided with the arrival of the cyclists, so after we helped them settle in we had a couple of beers and then a delightful meal at Bistro Keiv. Really good food and wine! Chris and Keith had not been all that impressed with the township of Lavello, but it appears that they know how to make a good Aglianico!

A day trip to Trani

Emboldened by doing 12000 steps a day without any negative effects, we decided to take the train down to Trani so Kathleen could see it.

I don't think it as nice as Barletta except the scenic port area.

As well as having a harbour full of pleasure craft it is an active fishing port.

Then we walked up to the cathedral which is an imposing sight on a headland, and the inevitable fortezza. The main area of the cathedral is being rennovated so access is limited to the small chapel downstairs.

For me though this was "picture of the day".

Then back to Barletta, light lunch and afternoon rest before we headed out for dinner.

A rest day in Barletta

Kathleen and I spent the day seeing some of the sights of Barletta.

We also met up with Julie so we could sort out the car hire paper warfare with Europcar. We met up at the train station and then on to Europcar. This was all OK and so the three of us had a lovely lunch and sent Julie on her way to Trani. Our lunchtime cafe was right near the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and there was a wedding in progress. Lovely flowers and good for people watching.

Back on the bike

So the plan for the day was a 30km somewhat hilly ride from Anghiari to Arezzo (Keith and I had ridden it years ago in the reverse direction), followed by train to Roma, return the bikes and then a longer train trip to Barletta.

This all went well, with a quite cold ride (especially on the long mountain downhills) but all OK. Met up with Kathleen at Termini as our trains arrived less than ten minutes apart. Booked our afternoon train and then rode to the bike shop to return the bikes and shuffle luggage.

On the train we booked a B&B in the centre of Barletta for one night but were happy enough with it that we extended the stay to leave on the 24th. Barletta is less touristy than the other Puglia coastal towns, but quite nice.

Across the street from our B&B...

Back on track

My "escape" from Anghiari went well! For one day I was clear of the virus I tested my strength and ability to recover from exertion. I walked up to and around Anghiari for a long morning. It is a fair climb to the town. The hotel is down the hill in about the middle of the picture.

 It went well! Nearing the end of 12000 steps for the day I had a celebration drink with a great view.

Then back down the hill for rest before dinner "out" at a local steakhouse. The beef is all Charolais and Limousin, not the local Chianina.

Close to the hotel is this lovely little two story house with matching oven.

I went to bed tired but happy to finally be free gain.

Plan C gives way to Plan D

Well the days roll by and Kate and I live only by the clock of the virus. Kate is in isolation and I am in isolation, but 120km apart.

Here in Anghiari things have been tolerable. The hotel room is OK and I get two meals a day brought to my door. Not much to see except the one photogenic view of Anghiari...

However there is light at the end of the tunnel and a plan. I am pretty sure that tomorrow I will be clear of the virus. So On Wednesday I will ride over to Arezzo and take the train to Roma. There I will return the bike and then take the train down to Barletta to spend a couple of days in the sun and sand before joining Pam and Julie's itinerary. Kate will also join us when she is clear. Then we will use a hire car to do the rest of the route (from Matera onwards) by car, matching the route of Keith and Chris on bikes.

Not what I wanted when this started but it is what it is.

Change of plans

Wow. I have been off the air since Saturday for a very good reason, the dreaded COVID. I had a scratchy throat on Saturday and then woke up to full COVID symptoms on Sunday. Did a RAT and isolated. Unfortunately my accommodation was entirely unsuitable for isolation (shared bathroom) and with very limited ameneties (no A/C, no WiFi, no refrigerator etc. etc.) so after a couple of days I  relocated as safely as I could and now I am sitting out the rest of my isolation period.

At least the view is nicer!

Meanwhile the others enjoyed the Palio and the other cultural attractions of Sansepolcro although I'll have to leave it to them to tell you that story.

On Monday the rest headed off by bike and van. I hear that the ride down to Ponte Valleceppi was really good, and that the climb up to Todi on the Tuesday is quite steep! Unfortunately I also heard that Kate now has COVID and is stuck in Todi.

So in a few days when my isolation ends I will ride down to Todi and join up with Kathleen there. We will take the bikes on the train from Narni back to Rome and then down to Barletta, riding to rejoin Chris and Keith at Lavello.  I guess the experience of the last few days is that plans have to be flexible.